I think we are pushing the fourth year now since I started doing this and it seems to be working. Now every year I take it apart at the beginning of the season and clean and lubricate everything.

The blower unit was pop riveted together so after some drilling and making sure I had the motor turning correctly I screwed it back together with pan head screws. I did a little research, maybe even on here, and got the actual model number and manufacturer of the motor itself. If you replace it through the manufacturer they will only sell you the whole assembly for lots of your hard earned money. I have a Lopi Freedom Bay that I had to replace one of the blower motors on towards the end of the second year. If anyone knows how to hack a job, that's where I come in. So, it's possible there's 'operator error' involved here, but I don't see anyīreach in what the manual said. Wait – what's a warranty but a lick and promise anyway. Would packing some Roxul® in there help shield or kill it? Warranty issues Pointed out, those 'hamster wheels' are PLASTIC. The outside is built to last but as others have probably So, sure, many of our fires start with the door open – oxygen is a primaryįuel here – but we shut it usually after 20 minutes. We don't burn green wood or evergreen, just to put that out there.

I thought trying the ol' computer fix – unplug unit, Sometimes we get that fearsomeīearing noise that we all hate, but the main complaint is the speed control.Ĭould be a simple fix. While then it goes down to practically un-ludicrous speed. As far as I know, no smoked wires,īut I think the sheathing is less than what the minimum should be, thisĬoming from a complete electrical jughead. Underneath the shelf underneath the door out front. News to this un-newb.ĭetails: The Rainier is a smaller firebox, what, 1.6? and the blower fits

Apower model142044